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January - February 2003 Volume 1, Number
1 ISSN: 0 Number 1 |
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On the
cover... Cover photo by John R. Ford. |
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Bow hunting is, by its very nature,
an up-close-and-personal kind of game. The whole object of the exercise is to see how
close you can get to the quarry before making the shot. Such limitations are the end
product of the equipment bow hunters carry afield. From the days of the recurve through
the first years of the compound, bow hunters - limited in large measure by available bow
technology - who could place a broadhead-tipped arrow into a pie plate-sized circle shot
after shot at 50 yards were quite rare. In fact, it was this limitation that spawned
several hunting products that all hunters have found quite useful, the most notable of
which are the tree stand and “custom” camouflage clothing.
Twenty-first century bow hunting is
still an in-their-face kind of game. However, modern compound bow and accessory technology
have created tools capable of precisely placing an arrow at ranges that, in decades past,
would have made shooters of most of the muzzleloading rifles of that day envious. Today
skilled archers shooting modern compound bows, arrows and broadheads routinely make
50-yard shots. Many are capable of extending that distance significantly. While rare, I
know a handful of western bow hunters who are quite capable of consistently making the
shot at 70, 80 and even 90 yards.
Before proceeding, a disclaimer: I am not one
of these highly skilled archers. I have made killing shots at 60 yards but would prefer to
be much closer. The men and women I know who make this type of long-range shot are highly
trained, shoot only perfectly matched and tuned tackle, practice these shots on a regular
basis and know when, and when not, to shoot. They know how to establish what I call their
own personal MESR (maximum effective shooting range) and how that maximum distance can
fluctuate given the conditions at hand. Establishing your own MESR is important no matter
how and where you bow hunt and will be the topic of a future
column.
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One of the problems in accurately
shooting at these extended distances is establishing a sight picture. Even with
well-trained shooting muscles and perfect shooting form, the sight picture a bow hunter
sees is one of a pin that is dancing slightly about the target. No matter what you do,
holding the sight pin rock-steady is impossible; if for no other reason, the beating of
your heart will bounce it slightly. That’s why it is important to establish a routine
in which you set the sight pin on the target the same way every time. For some, it means
placing the sight pin above the spot they wish to hit, slowly bringing the pin down
through the target, and releasing the arrow. For others, it is holding the pin to the
side, then sliding it over.
My friend Jerry Fletcher, owner of
Fletcher’s Archery in Wasilla, Alaska, and I were talking about long-distance
shooting recently. Jerry is someone I listen to closely. As a pro shop owner, he builds a
ton of bows each year, giving him an intimate knowledge of how they work. He also talks to
a lot of bow hunters with a wide degree of skill and dedication. As a serious bow hunter,
he knows what it takes to get the job done. As a champion field archer and tournament
shooter, Jerry also knows all about what it takes to become a highly skilled archer.
I was setting up a new compound bow
for hunting and was out on Jerry’s outdoor range, setting my sight pins for
long-distance shooting. All my hunting bows have sight pins set for 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 and
70 yards - with a couple featuring an 80-yard pin. Even though these longer pins are set
at distances at which I will never shoot at an animal (I know my own MESR), they are great
for practice.
My comment to Jerry was something
like: The real thing that makes it tough for me to shoot precisely at the longer distances
is the fact the .027-inch diameter fiber optic sight pins I (and just about everyone else)
use are so thick they completely cover the 4-inch circle we use as a bullseye. So when my
sight pin gets to bouncing around, it is hard to try and center it inside that tiny circle
when I am shooting at 60 yards or more.
That’s when my friend made me feel a bit
childish. “You shoot a handgun, don’t you?” he asked. When I said yes, he
asked, “Where do you hold the front bead of the handgun sight?”
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“I use a 6 o’clock hold,”
I said. Now, I have never claimed to be the brightest bulb in the lamp, but when that
60-watter upstairs started illuminating my sometimes slower-than-average brain, I felt my
face start to redden. There it was. By using a 6 o’clock hold, I could place the
sight pin at the base of the bullseye, completely eliminating the problem of the pin
covering up the target. When the pin floated into position, I could cut the shot and know
exactly where the shaft was heading.
Now I set my 40-yard-and-beyond pins
to cover the target, but the longer-range pins are set for the 6 o’clock hold. For a
guy used to covering up the “spot” with the sight pin before shooting, this new
hold took some getting used to. I have found it has made me a much better long-distance
shooter, in two ways. First, by allowing me to see the target clearly, I can be much more
precise with my sight picture. Second, when I let the arrow go, I can call the shot before
the shaft ever arrives. A good shot just feels good, of course, but when I pull one a
little, I can tell immediately where that arrow will end up before it gets there. This in
turn has helped me understand more about my own shooting form and its inherent flaws,
which has helped me correct the mistakes. This has helped me extend my own personal MESR.
I’ve been shooting a compound bow since
the early 1970s, and it took me 20-some years to figure this out. Wow. If you’ve had
the same trouble with your long-distance sight picture, give the 6 o’clock hold a
try. I’m betting you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the results.
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